Desensitization to Novel Stimuli
Many pups, even those who are good with people and other animals, grow up to be overly fearful of certain stimuli. The most common excessive fear or phobia is that of certain sounds. The sounds can range from fear of thunder, rain and wind noise, to fear of the sound made by smoke alarms, power equipment, or the household vacuum cleaner. Other so-called inanimate fears are things that are scary because of their appearance, whether these fears are primary or secondarily learned by association.
Other fears and uncertainties may be associated with the sensation of touch. For example, paw handling, brushing/grooming, and sometimes even certain floor surfaces. In an ideal world, it would be prudent to desensitize a dog to all of the above stimuli, starting at the 2 to 3 weeks of life stage and continuing through to say 3 or 4-months of age.
It may be possible, however, for a breeder to single out particularly important stimuli that he or she knows the dog will be bound to encounter and has reason to suspect may be cause for concern. For example, dogs of herding breeds, especially with a known family history of thunderstorm phobia, should probably all be desensitized to storm sounds from an early age. This can be accomplished by acquiring a high-quality tape or digital recording of storm sounds and playing it at first softly and then at slowly increasing volumes during pleasant circumstances for certain windows of time starting at 3-weeks of age and continuing throughout the entire sensitive period of learning.
A similar approach may be taken to other potentially disturbing sound cues by making recordings of them and utilizing the same step-wise desensitization principle. Paw handling, grooming, and shiny floor surfaces are likely to be a feature of all dogs' lives so these stimuli should be gradually introduced at the earliest opportunity.Situational Fears
The most common situational fear is separation anxiety, which is extremely prevalent affecting some 5% to 15% of dogs in the United States. Paradoxically, the most appropriate of preventing separation anxiety is by preventing stressful separation of the pup from loved ones during the entire sensitive period of development. This means that a pup should always be with the bitch, except for the briefest periods of supervised separation, until the time of adoption. Following adoption, the new owners should attempt to pick up where the bitch was forced to leave off and provide continuous care and company. The more attention a pup gets when it is young from its attachment figures, the less likely it will be to become over attached and/or fearful of being left alone later in life.
Another common fear is that of riding in the car. Frequently, a pup's first experience of riding in a car comes at the same time it is separated from the bitch at the time of adoption. What could be more frightening than to be separated from your mom and find yourself in an unfamiliar, noisy and lurching vehicle, heading who knows where? While scientific support of what I am about to say is lacking, it makes sense from basic principles. That is, it would seem wise to expose the pup, along with the bitch and perhaps other littermates, to the inside of a car first with the engine switched off; then with the engine running; and then with the car moving at first slowly and then quickly, for shorter journeys and then longer journeys. This way, the pup will grow up believing that automobiles, and the sounds and movements they make, are part of life which, as it happens, they are.
A final example of a situational fear that is rather inconvenient and distressing for all parties involved is fear of the veterinarian's office. Why not from an early age, right after desensitization to car rides, take the pup on short excursions to your veterinarian's office to introduce it to the receptionists, technicians, and even the veterinarian, whilst arranging for pleasant contingencies to exist at these times? One concern might be infection but, first of all, veterinarians know that they must disinfect their offices when animals with infectious diseases have passed through and, secondly, internal antibodies usually provide a safety net of protection for the first 2 to 3 months until vaccination can be conducted. In connection with the above enterprise, your veterinarian should be encouraged to spend the most time possible with the youngster to engender good feelings, to use food reward and to use the gentlest and least painful techniques should any intervention be necessary [e.g. should use the smallest gauge needles possible for injections and the least unpleasant oral medications]. Passing the Torch
All the good things mentioned above that the breeder has been working on at home with the new pups should be continued, perhaps at a slightly reduced frequency, by the new owner. In order for the new owner to do this, he or she must be instructed specifically how to conduct the socialization and desensitization exercises.
With this in mind, it is probably as well for a breeder to prepare a written handout to accompany a new pup at the time of adoption so that there is no question that this information is passed on. Also, a caring breeder should ask the adopter to contact them at the first signs of any trouble and make him or herself available for consultation. Other useful handouts for new owners would include one on house soiling, one on medical matters, and one of the values of using a crate as a lifetime sanctuary. Conclusion
The above discussion assumes that a good breeder already knows how to get her bitch bred, the fact that the bitch's nutrition will have to be beefed up during pregnancy and that she will need a suitable area to whelp. It also assumes that the breeder knows that a lactating bitch will require extra nutrition and proper health care prior to and following the delivery of her puppies
The reason this was omitted from the discussion is that most breeders have this down and already produce fine-looking specimens of their breed and take care of their brood bitch. The most numerous and potentially damaging problems that arise in puppies' post-adoption relate to behavior problems, which are common reasons for pups being returned to the breeder or perhaps surrendered to a shelter or pound. The latter, in many instances, amounts to a death sentence.
It may be somewhat of an exaggeration but it is has been said that half the puppies born in this country do not see their second birthday and the major reason for this is behavior problems that the owners believe to be, or find, irresolvable. This highlights the importance of proper socialization and desensitization so that pups will be able to integrate properly and function properly in their post-adoption lives.
As Irving B. Harris coined regarding optimal child-raising, it is a strategy of starting small, thinking big.